Garage door industry magazine for garage door dealers, garage door manufacturers, garage door distributors, garage door installers, loading docks, garage door operators and openers, gates, and tools for the door industry.
Issue link: https://idoi.epubxp.com/i/216705
TECHNICAL (continued from page 68) OIL: Oil does have its place, but nowhere on the tracks of the system. If you can deliver the oil inside the roller and directly on the roller bearings, oil is good. The same is so with hinge lubrication, too, because if it is applied inside the rotating components oil can be benefcial. It can reduce noise. Oil on the springs is not a recommendation either as I've even seen motor oil applied to them. My initial concern is applying too much causing it to drip down to the face of the garage door. Then, when the spring eventually breaks the density of the oil will spew just like grease. This leaves the fnal type of lubrication – Solvents/Cleaners and most notably WD-40. You may have heard the lore: • WD-40 was developed by Army for use on spaceships – No • It causes rust to develop – No • It attracts dust – NOPE not that either. This is one of the prolifc complaints about WD-40. I've always explained that there is no way WD-40 can attract dirt. There are no electrically charged particles that attract dirt. I now have a more detailed explanation. WD-40 is a cleaner AND lubricant. The cleaning component is provided by a diluted volatile hydro-carbon which gives it low viscosity so it can penetrate and clean crevasses. This volatile hydrocarbon will evaporate quickly leaving behind a non-volatile oil thus providing lubrication. Let's get back to our basic service call. Working from one side to the other, spray WD-40 on each roller right where the wheel rolls and spray each hinge right at the rotation point. I speak to the homeowner while doing this, explaining why each item can wear out. If I notice damage or wear, I will show them and provide pricing for replacement. Once I have worked my way to the other side, I will place my ladder in the center of the door and disengage the opener. I explain that a properly balanced garage door will stay at the midway open point. It is common for a garage door with glass in the top section to be heavy as it reaches the last foot or so of travel. Its weight is disproportionate to the others. If I fnd the door is not well balanced, I will adjust springs now that my ladder is in the middle. Once door balance is reasonable, I will manually open the door to the full open position. With the door open, I will walk out to my truck to obtain any parts that are needed. This may include grease – yes, grease is recommended for some electric openers. I'll also get my invoice clipboard. Once back to the garage, I will close the door and always attach a spring "caution" tag on the spring pad. I reach as far as I safely can up the opener's rail/screw assembly towards the opener's head. I can safely reach the frst half of the rail/screw. I then reposition my ladder closer to the opener's head, fnish lubricating the remaining portion of the rail/screw assembly, and place one of my company stickers on Continued on page 72 So, cleaning the cause of most garage door noise, the accumulated black metal dust in the door's hinges AND lubricating the components is provided in one product – WD40. I suggest two generous applications. The frst on your initial pass of inspection, let's say right to left, and the second after you have cycled the door a couple times by hand. Don't forget that excess will drip down so be prepared to wipe it up. 70 International Door & Operator Industry™